One of the most sacred elements in Tohono O’odham
culture is the Saguaro Cactus. They believe
these cacti are the reincarnation of humans.
Before the rise of commodity foods, and still to an extent today, the
Saguaro’s provided an essential food supply and the materials for a wine
ceremony. The wine ceremony consists of
consuming fermented Saguaro fruit pulp until nausea is induced. Then people go out into the desert and vomit
into the earth. This is said to bring
about rain over the summer months. The
ceremony is just another example of the Tohono O’odham’s culture of giving back
to the earth.
The gathering of Saguaro fruit and production
of the wine follows a rigid process and order.
The fruit were knocked from the top of a cactus using a Saguaro rib, and
fell into a bucket. This bucket was then
carried back to the gathering groups central meeting spot. Here it is then processed into a syrup. Two buckets of raw fruit and a bucket of
water produces about a quart of syrup.
The families who produce the syrup do what they want with it, whether
selling it or saving it. But they always
set some aside to contribute to the collective pot for the wine ceremony. A few days before the ritual, the syrup set
aside is collected and brought to the place where it is refined into wine. Then every convenes at that location a few
days later, having found out about it by word of mouth. Then come a few days of singing and wine
consumption until people “throw up clouds”, or the white, foamy combination of
Saguaro wine and stomach acid.
Gary Nahban, "Throwing Up the Clouds:
Cactus Wine, Vomit, and Rain," from The Desert Smells Like Rain
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